Old Trips Remembered: 1980 – A Week of Climbing in the North Cascades (Bonanza, Logan & Goode)

This was a week long climbing trip I took with Mountaineer friends, Roger Anderson and sisters, Cherri Mann and Jayn Little, to the southern portion of the North Cascades National Park. My recollection was that it was late July or early August (the slides were processed in August 1980). Statistically, this period is the driest time of year in Washington and our experience fit that data. In looking at the photos of the trip, I see only blue skies. Our goal for the trip was to summit three peaks, Bonanza, Logan and Goode, which are three of the top ten highest non-volcanic peaks in Washington. state.

The easiest access to the area is via Lake Chelan. We rode the passenger ferry, MV Lady of the Lake, from the town of Chelan, first to the dock at Railroad Creek that supports access to Holden Village and Bonanza, then to Stehekin at the end of the lake and access to climbing routes on Logan and Goode. We returned via the Lady of the Lake at the end of the trip.

Bonanza was our first goal. From the dock at Railroad Creek, we took the shuttle operated by the Holden Village Retreat Center to the road's end, then hiked the trail past Holden Lake to Holden Pass where we camped. The next day we ascended the slopes on the NE corner of Bonanza, onto the Mary Green Glacier and finally the upper rocky slopes. The climbing was not very technical but there was exposure (i.e., don't fall). The rocky portions are descended via rappel.

I believe after summiting we immediately descended back to our camp, breaking it down and then descending to Holden Village where we spent the night. The next morning we took the shuttle back to the dock and picked up the Lady of the Lake on its northbound trip to Stehekin. We spent the afternoon in Stehekin and camped their for the night. The next morning we caught the Park Service shuttle bus and got dropped off at the Park Creek trailhead.

From the trailhead, I recollect we hiked the seven or eight miles to camp just south of Park Creek Pass. The next morning we continued through Park Creek Pass then traversed the slopes towards the Fremont Glacier on the south side of Logan. After leaving the snow, the final slopes were an easy scramble. After we returned to our camp near Park Creek, I don't remember whether we stayed an additional night here or moved camp that afternoon to position for climbing Goode the following day. My bet is that we didn’t move until the next day rather than having two climbing days back to back.

From a camp part way down Park Creek, we climbed Goode via the 1936 first ascent route, the SW Couloir/SE Ridge. One of the climbers on the first ascent party was Othello Dickert, who was still active in the Mountaineers Club and somebody we all knew. Similar to our two previous climbs, the route was not technically difficult but Goode did have significant exposure as you scaled the final rock pitches to the summit. The views are expansive and demonstrate why the North Cascades National Park is such a treasure.

Our trip was certainly blessed by good weather but we were also well prepared and had a good plan. I can't remember whether it was Cherri or Roger who organized the trip. We got along well and everyone had a good time.