1982 – Huascaran, Peru

Huascaran is the highest peak in Peru (22,200 feet) and was my first climbing trip outside the United States (actually, the first trip of any kind outside Canada or the United States).  I think the trip was conceived by Harry Ellis and Jim Frush.  Recruited, besides myself, were Roy Ellis (no relation to Harry) and Keith Echelmeyer.  Keith was a late addition and was recommended by another trip participant (who’s name escapes me) who had to drop out.

We allocated 3-weeks in July for the climb during the region’s dry season.  Rather than going directly to the mountain, we chose to do some acclimatization at Cusco, a popular tourist site and the access point for Machu Picchu.  We did the Machu Picchu excursion as a long day trip from Cusco.

From Cusco we flew back to Lima for the trip to Huaraz which provided some of our best stories of the trip.  Perhaps we had seen too many movies depicting public transportation in developing countries as being provided by dilapidated buses carrying people with their livestock on board and the luggage tied with twine on top the roof.

We weren’t going to have any of that mischief so instead we hired a driver at the airport who had a van.  It turned out the van was some sort of 20+ year old British van whose 4-cylinder engine badly needed rebuilding.  Multiple times during the evening and night as the van crept up the steep highway over the coast range, we had to get out of the van and push.  We ended up sleeping along side the road and were kept awake as the many buses (all modern European buses with onboard restrooms) roared by us.

The climb itself was not technically difficult be did have route finding challenges.  Additionally, the altitude took its toll on both Harry and Roy who turned back along the way.  It was Jim, Keith and I who summited the south peak of Huascaran in somewhat foggy conditions.

		1982 Huascaran VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL

1982 – Mt Garibaldi Ski Traverse

(As this trip was more than 40 years earlier than when I am writing this description, I may have some details wrong)

This was a Mountaineers Club ski trip led by Dan McGuire to ski across the Mt Garibaldi Park in British Columbia. I believe the route is what is called the Garibaldi Neve Traverse. I found a nice description of the route here: Garibaldi Neve Traverse. A topographic map showing the route is here: Map of Garibaldi Neve Traverse.

The trip was a 3-day/2-night ski trip staying in two cabins, Elfin Lakes and Sentinel Bay. along the route. We drove up to Squamish near the start of the trip the night before and stayed in a motel. Since we were staying in cabins, we did not carry tents for overnight camping. We did have adequate gear for emergency camping (winter sleeping bags, stoves and shovels for snow shelters) and appropriate cold weather clothing. Most (all) of our group of nine had touring skis with 3-pin bindings. Not sure how many had metal edges to the skis. I know I didn’t as I used my Epoke 1000’s.

The first day to the Elfin Lakes cabin was mostly uphill on a well-marked route. We put climbing skins on the bottom of the skis to make it easier to ascend without slipping. The weather was clear and sunny. The Elfin Lakes cabin was quite nice and had nearby slopes on which to practice our ski turns while wearing a pack.

The next day started as a lovely day and the route was above the tree line and often on a glacier. It being winter and the glacier not being particularly active, we did not travel roped. Between the sun and traveling with heavy packs, adjustments to clothing were frequently necessary to avoid overheating and the associated sweat (never a good thing in winter). Some of us skied in shorts, at least on the uphill portions. The route took us near the summit of Mt Garibaldi, but we did not detour to the summit. As we descended from the high point along the route, the wind picked up and high clouds moved in, dropping the apparent temperature significantly. The accommodations at the Sentinel Bay hut were more spartan than those at Elfin Lakes.

The third day had us skiing across Garibaldi Lake, reentering the forest and skiing trail and road to the parking lot at the traverse’s end. A car had been left here two days earlier and it shuttled the group’s drivers back to start where they retrieved the cars for the group’s return to the Seattle area.

1981 - Denali Traverse, South Buttress to West Buttress

I believe it was Don Goodman who conceived of this trip.  I was fortunate enough to join Don, Dave Adams, David Jay and Al McGuire on this climbing trip, my first expedition on a big mountain.  The goal was to retrace the ascent route of the 1954 Thayer expedition on the South Buttress.  They ascended the South Buttress from the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier and descended the Muldrow Glacier.  Our plan was to descend via the West Buttress (the most popular ascent route).

We left in mid-April hoping for more settled albeit colder weather.  My departure was delayed by 3 or 4 days as I had contracted Chicken Pox from my nephew about 2 or 3 weeks earlier and was behind on my preparation.  I missed out on the load hauling between the landing zone and the first camp.  As it turned out, I also missed out on the trudge down the Kahiltna Glacier to Kahiltna Base on the SE Fork as I was flown out from just below Kahiltna Pass on account of my frostbitten toes. 

It was a great trip.  Some good weather and some bad weather but the good weather (moderate temperatures and NO wind) came when we especially needed it on the long traverse of the South Buttress Ridge from our 13,000 foot camp to the 15,000 foot camp at Radio Tower Saddle.  A few tensions in the group but no blood was shed. 

		1981 Denali VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL

1980 – A Week of Climbing in the North Cascades (Bonanza, Logan & Goode)

This was a week long climbing trip I took with Mountaineer friends, Roger Anderson and sisters, Cherri Mann and Jayn Little, to the southern portion of the North Cascades National Park. My recollection was that it was late July or early August (the slides were processed in August 1980).  Statistically, this period is the driest time of year in Washington and our experience fit that data.  In looking at the photos of the trip, I see only blue skies.  Our goal for the trip was to summit three peaks, Bonanza, Logan and Goode, which are three of the top ten highest non-volcanic peaks in Washington. state.

The easiest access to the area is via Lake Chelan.  We rode the passenger ferry, MV Lady of the Lake, from the town of Chelan, first to the dock at Railroad Creek that supports access to Holden Village and Bonanza, then to Stehekin at the end of the lake and access to climbing routes on Logan and Goode.  We returned via the Lady of the Lake at the end of the trip. 

Bonanza was our first goal.  From the dock at Railroad Creek, we took the shuttle operated by the Holden Village Retreat Center to the road's end, then hiked the trail past Holden Lake to Holden Pass where we camped.  The next day we ascended the slopes on the NE corner of Bonanza, onto the Mary Green Glacier and finally the upper rocky slopes.  The climbing was not very technical but there was exposure (i.e., don't fall).  The rocky portions are descended via rappel.   

I believe after summiting we immediately descended back to our camp, breaking it down and then descending to Holden Village where we spent the night.  The next morning we took the shuttle back to the dock and picked up the Lady of the Lake on its northbound trip to Stehekin.  We spent the afternoon in Stehekin and camped their for the night.  The next morning we caught the Park Service shuttle bus and got dropped off at the Park Creek trailhead.

 

From the trailhead, I recollect we hiked the seven or eight miles to camp just south of Park Creek Pass.  The next morning we continued through Park Creek Pass then traversed the slopes towards the Fremont Glacier on the south side of Logan. After leaving the snow, the final slopes were an easy scramble.   After we returned to our camp near Park Creek, I don't remember whether we stayed an additional night here or moved camp that afternoon to position for climbing Goode the following day. My bet is that we didn’t move until the next day rather than having two climbing days back to back.

From a camp part way down Park Creek, we climbed Goode via the 1936 first ascent route, the SW Couloir/SE Ridge.  One of the climbers on the first ascent party was Othello Dickert, who was still active in the Mountaineers Club and somebody we all knew. Similar to our two previous climbs, the route was not technically difficult but Goode did have significant exposure as you scaled the final rock pitches to the summit.  The views are expansive and demonstrate why the North Cascades National Park is such a treasure.

Our trip was certainly blessed by good weather but we were also well prepared and had a good plan.  I can't remember whether it was Cherri or Roger who organized the trip.  We got along well and everyone had a good time.

       

Left: Cherri & Jayn;    Center: Roger, Jayn & Cherri;    Right: Roger, Cherri, Jayn, Kurt